FASHION EXPERT INTERVIEW: FLORIAN FUNK, MENSWEAR TAILORING SPECIALIST

What would be your advice for designers / brands on what not to do when it comes to suits? 

Stop making suits with glued interlinings! 

Many famous brands are selling cheaper suits under their well-known names. Impressed by the name tag, clients gladly buy these suits thinking they are buying a quality product. Unfortunately, these suits are mostly made of lower quality, using cheap fabrics where the interlining is glued to the fabrics. 

Consequences of a glued suit: 

Garment is unable to move with your body because it’s stiff. Even worse, a glued suit is more isolating and less breathable. As a consequence, the wearer of such a suit overheats easily and sweats a lot. The only advantage might be the cheaper price, but this is only true short term. Most of the time the glue starts coming off after a couple of years and the garment starts wrinkling. That’s when you need to invest in your next suit. I therefore would strongly advise to invest in a suit with a sewn-in canvas in the first place. 

Companies such as Suitsupply, HallMadden or Indochino offer ready-to-wear as well as made to measure suits in high quality - at very reasonable prices. 

Why do you think blue is such an important color in menswear? 

Before I answer this question, I want to remind your readers that until the early 20th century, pink - seen as a strong color coming from the powerful red - was the color for boys, while girls were wearing blue,  the color associated with the Virgin Mary. This changes only after the Second World War.

Today, men have a strong preference for blue. Blue is associated with authority figures, intelligence and stability. 

The name royal blue already gives an indication that blue is also seen as a color of elevated level. A deep royal shade is not only seen as sophisticated, but it also conveys trust and truthfulness.

The color is widely accepted and therefore not a “risky” one to wear. Most men do not want to call too much attention to their outfits. Almost everyone likes some shades of the color blue. When it comes to combinations, blue is a perfect colour to combine with almost any other color. I recently demonstrated on my own Instagram blog the different kind of combinations possible, wearing a blue blazer. 

Where does your love for tailoring come from?

I really don’t know where it started but it started very early. I’ve always loved to dress well. On the picture of my first day at school, I’m wearing a blazer and tie while everyone else is wearing casual outfits. I had a wonderful classroom teacher - full of energy and humor - wearing white t-shirts every single day. In second grade I couldn’t take it anymore, so I decided to buy him a dress shirt. Haha. 

Coming back to your question: 

My parents would probably argue that my grandfather - whom I admired greatly - was the reason for my love for tailoring and classic clothing. He was always well dressed. Every single day he would wear a tie, a bespoke suit, a pocket square and elegant shoes -almost looking like an English Lord. I guess he together with my dad are the foundation for my love for tailoring. 

The famous book “The Gentleman” by Bernhard Roetzel who I highly recommend to anyone interested in classic menswear, helped me greatly to understand the subject from a professional point of view.

What is the biggest difference between the American and the European market?

I think the biggest difference between the European and American market when it comes to menswear is that in Europe - especially in countries like Italy, Spain, France, Britain etc. men actually dress up when meeting friends for dinner. They put on a fitted blazer, nice chinos and loafers - while the majority of people in the US - as soon as they leave work, tend to dress down and end up wearing extremely casual outfits. In the States it’s all about being comfortable. 

Another difference I noticed is that Europeans demand fitted clothes, while Americans prefer more comfortable wider cut trousers and jackets. 

Finally, I would say Americans are much more practical and prefer to dress more look alike while Europeans like to play around with colours and accessories such as pocket squares in many different tones. They like to differentiate themselves from each other with a personal note / style.

Edited by Jennifer Menard

A dandy in a very casual world. Florian Funk wearing a blazer while buying bagels.

Follow Florian on Insatgram @bagels_and_blazers